Annual flower variety trial update.

As you may be aware the Nelson County Extension office is participating in a state wide variety trial this year and things are going well.  The 4-H teen Council and I planted the twenty varieties in early May on the Extension office property.  The planting was to undergo no miraculous efforts to maintain, just simple everyday maintenance.  This include up front fertilization, weed management, and mulching. 

The Kentucky Home Extension Master Gardeners have evaluated the plantings once a month since the install and will continue to do so until frost.  Later we will publish the findings as to which plants performed best overall.   If you are close stop by and see the planting, it continues to receive compliments from the public for adding a very nice splash of color to the neighborhood.

Bagworms: pest problem of the week!

Bagworms are voracious feeders once they reach a critical size.  Evidently we are at that critical size now which is about a month and a half behind when they usually become a problem.  Bagworms are the tree ornaments of nature.  The caterpillar forms and lives in its own pouch domicile.  The bag is spun to create an extremely tough structure and they continue to add to the size as they increase their size.  They live in, mate in and feed from the comfort of their living room.  When they attach to a branch they resemble a little ornament hanging from the tree. However, gain no satisfaction from their decoration because these buggers can defoliate a spruce, arborvitae, pine, cedar, etc. short order.

Observing your plants will be the best defense to thwart off an invasion. Stay diligent beginning in May and check periodically.  They begin as a hatchling from the overwintered bag (with as many as 300 siblings) and are very small.  Their small size and an incomplete bag make them susceptible to what ever you decide to use as your offense.  For more detailed information and control measures see the University of Kentucky publication: Bagworms on Landscape Plants

Gifted Gardener Newsletter

Enjoy the newest Gifted gardener newsletter.  If you would like to subscribe let us know.

Lumpy Lawns caused by Mole Mania!

Lots of folks are dealing with lumpy lawn syndrome these days.  With the above average moisture for this time of year in Central Kentucky Moles have enjoyed an extended run (pardon the pun). Therefore extending the fury of many homeowners in the process. 

When you have moles it tells me really two things: 1) you have a particularly nice piece of soil and 2) you have an ample selection of earthworms.  Now neither of the two are problem in their own but when that becomes the domicile and smorgasbord for the local mole population a problem is born.  The question usually becomes "How do I get rid of the Moles?".  The process is not an overly simple one and I need to dispel some myths about moles as we go along.  For example white grubs have really gotten a bad rap as being the cause of a growing mole problem.  While moles will eat a grub, they are not the food of choice.   It turns out that they are much happier with a good selection of earthworms.  In other words don't waste your money on controlling grubs to control moles it just won't be effective.  Products that are made from Castor bean extract are intended to run moles off and will do so for only a short period of time.  Once the mole gets used to it he/she comes back.   In fact the only thing that consistently rids you of moles long term is an earthworm shaped bait that contains the active ingredient Bromethalin. 

The nitty gritty includes rolling down all the runs (feeding tunnels) in the lawn, then wait for one to pop back up.  This usually indicates a main feeding run and the bait should be deposited into the run.  Once the bait is taken the mole will survive another 24 hours.  There are usually only one mole per acre because of their territorial nature however once you have removed one mole there remains a good chance that a neighboring mole will take over the runs.  You must remain diligent if you are to rid the lawn of moles.  I have such bad soil that I would love to have a mole working my yard at least then aeration would be taking place. 

Advantages of Fall Vegetable Gardening

I just recently presented a class on fall vegetable gardening at the Bloomfield, KY Library to a an enthusiastic audience.  During that talk I outlined several advantages to the fall garden versus the spring garden or as an extension to the spring garden.  First I will point out the reasons it isn't as popular as the spring garden and then I will list the many advantages to the fall garden. 

Everyone loves a spring garden for many reasons not the least of which is that we have been cooped up in the house all winter looking through seed catalogs and just getting the itch to be outside.  We have a uncontrollable instinct to refill the pantries and strong desire for the flavors that come with a garden.  For me its the smell of freshly tilled soil that just makes me happy.  We begin the garden with vim and vigor and end sometimes in a flurry of I just cant keep up.  This year is one of those years that epitomizes why fall gardening is just not as popular.  In a year like this the garden can easily be run over with weeds, taken by some evil fungi, or wiped out by a marauding herd of potato beetles.  Those scenarios in themselves are reason enough to give up. But lets not quit hastily, here are some of the advantages of the fall vegetable garden:

•  Provides valuable produce production extension
• Excellent quality produce due to cool temperatures
• Sweeter
• Increased tenderness
• Less off flavors
• Vegetables hold longer in a fall garden
• Fewer pests to control
• Helps keep weed seed numbers down for next seasons garden
• Adds additional organic matter to the garden
• Less disease pressure

For more information of vegetable gardening in general stop by the office at 317 south third street, Bardstown KY 40004 or take a look at Vegetable Gardening in KY

What is that yellow grassy looking plant in my lawn and landscape?

Are you as aggravated with the yellow grass like plant that grows faster than your turf, invades your landscape and just makes the yard look anemic?  The plant that we are talking is Yellow Nutsedge.  Yellow nutsedge is in the sedge family and has been long consider a wet area and wet season plant.  That however has changed and it seems to dominate in about any location.  If you believe the patches are getting bigger each year you are exactly correct.  The plant spreads via rhizomes (underground stems) and the dispersion of the tubers through cultivation.  The plant is square stemmed and the growth point is low to the ground which allows it to tolerate mowing.  General cultivation doesn't work for the removal because the plant forms tubers underground that can remain dormant for long periods of time and can get moved around through tillage practices.  So how do we cope with this annoying weed. 

I usually tell folks to move but there are a few things you can try.  Well when we are talking small clumps hand pulling can work.  If the the clump is a stand alone (with nothing else around it) then spot spraying with a glysophate solution can work.  Otherwise a nutsedge control will need to be used to control the population in a turf situation.  The active ingredients you will look for is betazon, halosulfuron, sulfentrazone to see the retail packaging you can find these active ingredients in visit Controlling Weeds in Kentucky Home Lawns and look on page 3 and 5.  Always follow label directions in whatever you decide to use.   

Wet spring means big problems and big blessings

A wet spring means that the water hose is lonely and our boots are muddy.  It also means that we should spend more time in the landscape and garden scouting for a plethora of potential diseases and insects that will be abundant in this season.  The following are some of the things are more prevalent as I walk around yards this spring.

• Roses are being eaten heavily by an insect called the rose slug and the rose rosette virus has become more common on all types of roses.  
• Maples are suffering from what appears to be verticillium wilt
• Bacterial cankers are showing up on all types of plants, from weeping cherries to smoke tree.
• Spider mites are on spruce, juniper, holly, annual flowers etc.  
• aphids are still running wild on many plants but none worse than daylilies
• Tomatoes are being threatened by both early blight and late blight, preventative controls should be implemented for both of these problems.   

Are your Tomatoes Fired Up?

A very common problem I have encountered in gardens this spring is known as Early Blight.  We have had a especially good year for the development of this fungal disease.  Cooler temperatures, heavy and often rains have caused this to progress somewhat faster than in other years.  What to do?

Control begins with clean transplants, which means no spotting on the leaves, and good green color to the plant.  Since this is a soil born disease there should be a mulch placed on the soil to keep soil from bouncing on to the leaves during heavy rains.  Any thing will do such as newspaper, leaves, grass clippings, etc. An early spray program of chlorothalonil or mancozeb (these are active ingredients) will insure that you keep the plant clean longer through the season.  If you are not partial to chemical treatments then particular attention will need to be paid to the cultural practices that will reduce the risk.  Water under the foliage with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, but never over the top with a sprinkler.  Also if you reuse trellises, cages, stakes etc. you will need to sanitize these during the winter.  The tiny spores can overwinter on these structures and cause re-infestation the following year. 

In central Kentucky you still have time to replant tomatoes to get a crop but the above practices need to be used. 

Disease affecting Kentucky roses | UK College of Agriculture News

Disease affecting Kentucky roses | UK College of Agriculture News

Blooming Bardstown Garden Tour



Silent Auction Catalog



Blooming Bardstown FlierTen years ago a small group of Kentucky Home Extension Master Gardeners began planning the first Blooming Bardstown Garden Tour.  We wanted to showcase beautiful gardens of the area and increase the exposure of gardening as a rewarding and meaningful hobby.  Well ten years later we are going strong with one of the best lineups of gardens to date, an expanded silent auction offering, increased vendor participation, and an expanded Master G's plant sale and garden item area.  This year will feature a large vegetable garden, perennial borders, water features, hidden gardens, and many interesting thinks to see.  

Blooming Bardstown Flier



This year there will be more than 50 volunteer Extension Master Gardeners putting on this showcase of horticulturally significant gardens.   We would love for you to come on out and join us for a wonderful day of activities.  All the information you will need is on the Blooming Bardstown Flier just click the link and see the information.  Also click the silent auction link to see the more than 60 items that will be up for bid or buy it now.  

Browning of Arborvitaes (evergreens)



Specks on paper are Spider Mites



After viewing some pictures a client brought in I was pretty certain of what I was seeing but really needed to make certain.  The eleven year old hedge of Arborvitae was impressive but at a glance you could see the off color nature of the plants.  Arborvitae are generally a nice green color but some of these were exhibiting a very off green to brown appearance.  Upon a visit and a simple paper test (where I place a piece of white paper under the limb then tap the limb) I discovered a large spider mite population.  The paper was covered with tiny black specks that begin to move around. It turns out that these particular ones are the Spruce Spider Mite and affect a ton of different evergreens in the landscape.  For control methods see the UK publication Spider Mites on Landscape Plants.

Notice the Discoloration of the forward plant versus the on in the rear of the picture

Careful with compaction in the garden

Gardening season is in full force with the threat of frost now behind us. It’s a good time to think about your soil. Soil compaction creates an unfriendly growing environment for plants and is a serious problem for many home gardeners. However, it is relatively easy to prevent.


Compaction transforms soil into a difficult environment for plant growth by making it harder for roots, water and soil to penetrate the ground. Major causes are working the soil when it is too wet, foot traffic and excessive rototiller use.

To reduce this problem, it is best to avoid working in the garden or walking in it when the soil is too wet. Squeeze a handful of soil and if it forms a muddy ball, rather than crumbling when you open your hand, stay out of the garden area.

Walk between plants and rows in the garden area to reduce compaction in primary plant growth areas.

Excessive rototiller use destroys soil structure and promotes compaction. When compaction takes place in a dense soil structure, it also makes root growth more difficult.

A little hand hoeing, rather than a rototiller, may be all you need to do to eliminate a few weeds. It usually causes less soil damage than repeated rototilling and is less harmful to the earthworms that help aerate the soil.

You also can use mulch to control weeds instead of tilling. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch relieves the pressure of walking on the soil, reducing the degree of compaction.


Source: John Strang, Extension Horticulture Specialist

Follow these steps to keep the Tomatoes coming all season

The staple of many gardens really could use a little help from you to provide fruit for the entire season. That care should start at or just before transplanting to maintain good clean transplants that can thrive and handle all that the summer will throw at them.

 

The major problem of tomatoes comes from a soil born disease called early blight. Early blight is described when the plant begins to “fire up” from the bottom. Firing up refers to the lowest leaves on the plant spotting then turning yellow or black and finally falling off. When early blight is bad enough it will affect the leaves, stem and the fruit. The problem can result in the loss of the entire crop. So, what to do to prevent crop loss from early blight in tomatoes?

•  Start with clean disease free transplants (no spots and good color). Grow your own seedlings is a better way to ensure disease free plants.
•  After planting mulch under the plants to keep soil from bouncing up on the plant. Mulch can be organic, landscape fabric, or paper type products. 
• Early sprays of Chlorothalonil (a protectant fungicide) applied weekly will keep your plants much cleaner. Brand names include Fungonil and Chlorothalonil.  
• Watering should always be done at the root zone and not over the top. Sprinklers in the garden are a sure way to promote disease.

 These steps are sure to help you keep disease free plants all the way to frost.

 

Even though the other prevalent problem on tomatoes (Blossom End Rot) is not disease the cultural practices listed to the left will greatly decrease the occurrences of this abiotic problem. Blossom end rot is a lack of calcium being taken up by the plant because of intermittent watering and the allowing of the plant to dry between watering. So keep the plants moist and mulched and the lovely red fruit will keep coming all season.

Aphids on Daylilies

Lady Bug adult and larva

Aphids and their exoskeleton

Daylilies are by far one of the most popular perennials for Kentucky landscapes and there is no doubt there are plenty planted.  I just wanted to make you are aware that a tiny sucking insect called an Aphid is enjoying your daylilies as you read.  Their damage can develop into a major problem if controls are not taken.  But first lets talk about scouting the beds and knowing what is going on.  When you look through the daylilies what you may find is a white papery looking material on the surface of the leaves.  This will be small and scattered about the plant.  these are the exoskeleton of the aphid and was discarded when they molted. Seeing these signs will indicate that you have a population of aphids present.  The other thing I hope you see is Lady Bug activity.  Lady Bugs are notorious aphid killers and can control small populations of aphids. 

So now for the decision; if the daylily looks green and healthy especially at the crown of the plant and your are seeing plenty of lady bugs then let them work.  If you see plenty of sign of aphids, low amount of lady bugs and the center of the plant seems weak in color (yellow) then a decision to spray an insecticidal soap should be made.  For more information on this subject see Aphids

Oaks and Boxwoods getting bombarded right now!

Oaks are taking a beating by the same insect that bounces off the security light at night.  This beetle feeds and night and its main course is your young oak leaves.  They will chew the new leaves off all the way back to the petiole leaving the tree stripped clean of foliage.  While this is not good the action does not mean doom for the tree.  If the tree is healthy the tree will simply add new leaves later.  However if it is a tree that is struggling already this activity could put over the top. See this link for control options:  Controls for insects eating ornamentals.

Boxwoods are being infested with psyllid activity.  These guys cause more cosmetic damage than anything else but that can be enough.  Psyllids cause the puckering or cupping of the leaves on boxwoods that persist all season.  See this link for control options: Boxwood Psyllid

Rain Garden Installed

Success,  The first Rain Garden has been installed at the corner of Jones and Broadway.  The workshop was held on Monday the 29th of April and the garden was installed on May 1st.   An army of volunteers jumped in and installed the garden in about an hour.  We will be adding a few day lilies later on to fill the few thin areas.  For more information on rain gardens and how they can fit into your landscape see the following site:  Residential Rain Gardens

The Excitement of a New Garden and the disappointment of WEEDS!!

This is the time of year that we all get very excited about raising our own food and our mind's eye sees bountiful produce both on the table and in the cupboard.  But as you know lots of good practices need to take place between now and then to make that dream a reality.  The first thing we need to start with is working the soil. Key to this step is not working the garden when it is too wet.  Check this by grabbing a hand full of soil, squeezing it together and then drop it from your waist.  If the ball breaks apart on impact with the ground then you are good to go with final tillage.  Fertilization should take place at this point to get the fertilize in the root zone where the plants need it most.  Assuming you have done all the planning this winter and you already know what you are planting and where; it is time to begin.  As you and I know the challenges of a good garden are about to begin.  This is the stage of gardening when mother nature wants to test our commitment to the project by throwing every weed she has at us in that initial flush.  The trick here is to not be a hero  but be proactive.  In other words work very hard in the beginning of the season to control weeds by hoeing daily versus weekly.  Use one of the many scuffle hoes on the market to shallow cultivate and remove the weeds.  Scuffle hoes work by moving across the soil surface to cut the germinating weed seeds.  Shallow cultivation is the key to a weedless garden for a longer period of time.  By not bringing more weed seeds to the surface to germinate we can limit their intimidation.  Water only the area that needs watering so that we don't contribute to rogue germination.  Stay vigilant my friends or the weeds will win.  For more information on Home Vegetable Gardening click this link.

Two important gardening classes on Thursday evening starting at 5:30pm

Spring is a time for gardening, learning new things and trying new things.  Boy do we have a line up for you on Thursday evening.

 

First up at 5:30 pm is everything you ever wanted to know about beans.  In this class we will explore how to grow beans, the many different varieties, and the nutritional value of a good bean.  I will have several varieties for you to take home and try in your garden. Can anyone say freebies?

 

Next at 7:30 pm I will be offering a drip irrigation workshop for the home garden and orchard.  This class will explore how inexpensive irrigating your garden can be and just how much you can save with this type of irrigation.  Not only will you see increased yield but also decreased disease problems.

 

Come out classes are free and open to the public and irrigation supplies will be availble for your garden at the cost of materials.  Just bring your garden dimensions and we can design for your setting. 

Nelson County Extension office

317 South third Street

Bardstown KY 40004

502-348-9204

What's the purple stuff in my yard?





Answer is....... Dead nettle or Henbit.  Both are purple in flower and foliage and absolutely happy this time of year.  We pay attention to this weed this time of year when it is visible but the attention should be given in the fall before it germinates.  Both weeds have similar characteristics and should be treated as the same when considering control.  I prefer the fall control methods which includes a pre- emergent control however at this time of year your only choices are to wait for it to die when the temperatures warm or use a broad leaf weed control to eliminate it now.  For more information on all weed control see the publication AGR-208 Weed Control for Kentucky Home Lawns . Keep in mind that most of our best lawn care activities should take place in the fall versus the spring. 

Dead Nettle

Henbit











Getting Ready for Bardstown's First Rain Garden

This morning I met with UK specialist Brad Lee and City Engineer Jessica Filiatreau in regards to selecting a site for the city's rain garden.  We have chosen a site at the corner of Jones and Broadway because of its high influx of water during runoff rains.  Today we are conducting a percolation test to make sure the soil can handle the water load and allow the plants to flourish. 

So, a rain garden is an area that can and often does receive flooding during heavy rain.  The rain garden then uses plant material to uptake and slow down water so that it can then enter in to the soil profile thus reducing the amount of storm runoff that enters the septic and streams. 

You can take part in a the first Rain Garden Workshop on April 29th at 9:00 am at the Nelson County Extension Office. We will go through the entire process from design to build.  We will get our hands dirty in the afternoon.  Lunch will be provided we just need you to sign up with the Extension office at 348-9204.