Beauty is underfoot in our Kentucky Woodlands!

This past Sunday afternoon was the perfect day for a walk in the woods with my family.  As cold as it has been my expectations were not great that we would see a whole lot of spring color.  However, I was pleasantly surprised that the color came in many forms, shapes. and hues. 

Our first lesson was pointed out by my daughter when she noticed a mass of chartreuse green  hanging from an otherwise barren tree.  this turned out to be a honeysuckle vine holding on to the leaves it had from last fall.  This was very eye-catching because of the stark difference between its display and everything else in its surroundings.  The trees all wore fine coats of grays, blacks, and brown hues.   The many textures of the bark provided an ever-changing show no matter the size or perspective of the person.   Sometimes the perspective is better the lower you are to the ground as was evident from the many "What's this Daddy?" I received from my 5 year old throughout the walk.  His unique perspective allowed him to quickly pick up the colors and flowers that weren't as readily visible to myself.  We discovered stark whites in the large shelf mushrooms,  Bloodroot flowers, and Twinleaf.  Green hues were in great abundance with the many mosses, the emerging Bluebell foliage, and the unique unfolding of the Buckeye leaves. 

My oldest son loves nature and all it has to offer but on this day his hunt was to discover the perfect place to read the next of a long line of books and to let nature happen around him.  He must of pointed out twenty places where he could recline and read.

For two hours we walked and talked about the complexities and simplicities of an awakening spring forest.  With our heads down, (not to look at a screen) trying to one up the other on the next colorful find and to keep from trampling Mother Natures carpet we enjoyed a day of beauty and togetherness.  Get out to the woodlands and enjoy the beautiful show that Mother will be unveiling all season long in a slow and steady cadence, much like the "What's this Daddy?" that I heard on our walk. 

Why do my broadleaf evergreens look so bad this spring?

Winter Drying on Boxwood

Broadleaved evergreens like hollies, magnolias, boxwoods, and rhododendrons have been beaten up this past winter and are looking pretty ragged coming into spring.  Winter drying is the culprit and was expected based upon what kind of winter we just went through.  The discoloration occurs because of the plants leaves dry out during frozen ground conditions.  This means that the soil around the roots remained frozen for an extended period of time and the plant could not take up needed moisture to maintain the foliage.  While the soil was frozen and no uptake of water was taking place the winds were still evaporating moisture from the foliage resulting in the burnt or scorched appearance.

Winter Drying on Magnolia

Winter Drying on Holly

The unfortunate thing is there is not a lot of options for dealing with the problem after it happens.  We generally see very little long term effects from this problem.  Usually the worse case is some twig die-back and an un-thrifty appearance to the plant for awhile.  Generally they will put new leaves back on and resume normal appearance as the spring continues to improve.   Patience will be the order of the spring to get back to a more lush landscape.  To read more about how to manage this problem next winter read the following:  Leaf Scorch and Winter Drying of Woody Plants

Vegetable gardening good for the belly, soul, and the wallet!

Click here for your copy

All of us are basically a generation removed from there being no question about where at least a portion of your food comes from.  When I was growing up in the late 70's and early 80's we were going to have a garden it just was a matter of how big and what was to be grown.  Now a days it seems we are wishy washy on whether we'll put out a couple of tomatoes.  Our garden each year was lead and planned by my Grandmother and my aunt.  It covered about a half acre and fed about three good sized families.  It was a given that we would all spend some time in the garden and grandma dictated when and what  needed to be done.  This community/family garden really shaped my future and set me on the path that led me to becoming a Horticulturist.  But it was the social aspect that really formed my values and honed my belief in the strengths of an extended family.  It was everything from the sowing of seed, cutting and gathering bean poles, finding the first ripe tomato, and the inevitable dirt clod fight among cousins that cultivated both the love of family and gardening.  Let it be known that my Uncle Herb just about always found the first tomato and always had a shaker of salt in his pocket for said event.

Get your family involved and garden together the kids may fuss now but I guarantee they will have the good memories forever.  If the thought of a vegetable garden intimidates you join forces with someone with all the experience of gardening but just can't do garden work like they used to.  You'll both benefit immensely from the experience and your food knowledge will greatly improve.  The Home Vegetable Gardening In Kentucky you see pictured in this entry is a wonderful publication for all levels of gardening experience.  You can click on the picture caption  to see a pdf of the publication but if you would like a copy just send me an email at robsmith@uky.edu with your name and address and we will mail you one out, or you can simply stop by the Nelson County Extension office for your free copy.

What will all this road salt do to our landscapes?

Think Spring, this weather can't last forever can it? 

With all the winter weather we have been enduring our plants are forced to endure even more.  With the frequent "1 inch blizzards" (as one person on facebook called them) comes the need for safety on the roads. To achieve safer roads we are forced to turn to sodium chloride or deicing salt to melt away the (what i am now referring to as the white plaque) snow.  However, with all its safety and melting abilities it also poses many problems for our landscapes and lawns.

The damage won't show up immediately but will come on gradually this spring as the plants begin to grow. Rather than me describe what might take place I am going to refer you to a really good Purdue University publication that even provides you with a list of plants that can tolerate high salt levels.  See Salt Damage in Landscape Plants for more detailed information.  Salt will do the greatest damage where it is being thrown as a spray by passing automobiles or when plants are in the direct runoff path as the melting "white plague" moves the salt into landscape beds etc.

Benefits and process of seed starting at home

Starting your own seeds at home can be a rewarding experience.  You most definitely will save money on your plants but for me the most rewarding aspect is that you ensure what varieties you get.  Many varieties are not always available at the garden center and sometimes are not labeled properly.  Improper labeling only shows up 3 months later when your Big Boy tomatoes turn out to be yellow and pear shaped.  Below are some tips on how to make the most out of starting your own seeds.

Starting Seeds at Home Take Home Points:

• Start with a good seed starting soil-less media which would include peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. 
• Pay attention to the planting depth of your seeds and cover lightly if necessary.
• Maintain a constant heat and humidity level around the germinating plants.  This will ensure quick and even germination.
• Lighting is very important. Regular Bright light Fluorescent bulbs will provide a very desirable visible spectrum for plant growth. They are as good or better than the so called plant grow bulbs. Do not use incandescent, too much heat, and not enough usable light spectrum.
• Lighting should remain on throughout the germination phase and as long as they are grown inside. A 16 hour cycle of lighting will be best and the light should remain 2 to 3 inches above the plant canopy while grown indoors for optimum growth.
• Air circulation is very important after germination for two reasons; it helps to reduce disease problems and it also helps to strengthen the stems.
• A soil thermometer will help you gauge temperature levels in the seed starting area. Different plants prefer different temps but as a general rule between 70 and 80 degrees will suffice.
• Light fertilization should begin shortly after germination and as a general rule begin with a halved rate of fertilize based on the indoor plant feeding directions found on the back of your choice of soluble fertilize.

Blackberry Pruning Demonstration

John Strang, University of Kentucky Extension Fruit Specialist provides a very thorough lesson on how to prune thorny and thornless blackberries. John provides some teminology and tips within his video that I have bulleted for you below.  

• Primocane is a first year growth and does not fruit (unless it is a primocane fruiting variety)
• Floricane is the same shoot after overwintering.  This shoot will flower and fruit in the second year
• Rednecked Cane Borer is an insect that bores into the can and cause an enlarged growth
• 4-6 canes per hill or 6 canes per foot of row
• Laterals pruned to 12 -16 inches
• Remove prunings from the orchard
• Floricanes should be removed in the Fall if possible

Master Gardener Classes Forming

The Kentucky Extension Master Gardener Program is a wonderful opportunity for individuals to learn more about horticulture and to become leaders in their community.  We help you gain knowledge and build confidence in your abilities to help others with gardening inquiries.  All the information presented in the 10 to 12 session training is sound research based information that will help you see the inter-connected nature of horticulture and the fields of study like entomology, pathology, soils, and much more.

We are in the process of forming the 2014 class of Master Gardeners for the residents of Nelson County, Kentucky.  The classes will begin in late January and run through the first of April.  With your information and availability we can begin setting dates and times for the classes.  Below you will find a brochure and an application link please fill them out and return to the Nelson County Extension office at 317 South Third Street,  Bardstown Kentucky.  You may call the Extension Office after January 2nd for more information at 348-9204.  

Nelson County Master Gardener informational Brochure. 
Master Gardener Application.

Changing the way I Veggie Garden

Traditionally I have been an in row gardener like most folks but have decided to try a different way of conducting veggie business.  Recently I spent a great deal of time in my garden.  In late November I caught a few days when the soil in the garden was quite workable and decided to create permanent garden beds.  To do this I tilled as deep as I could then tilled in the opposite direction as deep as I could get the tiller down.  I know that the tiller does nothing for the soil structure except destroy it but my decision to create permanent beds should offset that activity in a few growing seasons.  After the soil was worked adequately the kids and I began to lay out the garden.  First, we squared up the garden to within an inch and began to lay out the beds and paths.  I took into consideration equipment size, optimal bed widths and aesthetics when creating the final design.

We ended up with a a four foot wide main path and two or three foot wide paths along the beds.  By shoveling the soil out of the path area down to the un-tilled soil and placing it into what would become the beds we created raised beds that became about 40 inches wide and to a depth of about 10 inches.  This will or should create a much deeper rooting zone than what we previously had.  Next spring I'll sod the paths from sod on the farm to make harvest and planting less limited by weather conditions.

The final practice this winter was to top dress with some of our compost on some beds and leaves on others to increase the organic matter in the beds.  I will let you know which one performs best in the spring.

The advantages to the permanent bed garden:

• Easier planning in the off season
• Once established easier spring preparation 
• Start gardening earlier
• Better Drainage
• Deeper Rooting (maybe now I can grow Carrots)
• Allows for more diverse planting 

Tree of the week: Ginkgo biloba

Ginkgo leaf late in the season 

I have the pleasure of viewing from my office window a spectacular season long display from an unusual and wonderful tree, the Ginkgo. There are several qualities that make this tree very attractive for the home landscape.  In the spring it adds beautiful umbrella shaped light green leaves that stay blemish free all season long.  With age the tree can be rather large reaching sizes between 50' and 80' tall and 30' to 40' wide. Eventually having a more distinct pyramidal shape with large wide spreading branches.  Furthermore, there are litterally hundreds of varieties that will grow to about any profile.  The sizes mentioned above doesn't happen overnight but more like over centuries.

This tree is very adaptable as evidenced in its fossilization findings dating back 150 million years.  The tree was once native to North America and has been reintroduced.  It prefers a deep well drained soil but, will adapt to about any situation.  This adaptability makes it a perfect candidate for streetscapes, new construction sites, and other hostile situations.  Perhaps the most fascinating part for me is its fall leaf drop. The tree I see everyday just dropped its leaves and the process occurred over an eight hour period.  At 8:00 am the tree was dropping leaves like rain fall and by 4:30 pm 95% of the leaves were on the ground.  As you may have concluded this makes it a one rake tree or one mulching tree as I should say which makes fall clean up a breeze.

Warning: Only choose male varieties of this tree because the fruit of the female stinks to no end.

Why is my White Pine turning yellow?

It's a question I usually get every fall from folks concerned that they are loosing their White Pine tree to some devious disease or insect.  However, the truth is that the tree is simply loosing needles as a result of the fall season and age.  When you look closer you will notice that the tree is loosing needles from a previous years growth and this is simply a healthy part of the growth cycle.  There are no doubts that White pine in our part of the country have a great deal of problems to overcome (mostly cultural) but seasonal needle drop is not one of them.

For more information on White Pines and their qualities and problems in Kentucky see the following for more information.
http://www.uky.edu/hort/Eastern-White-Pine
http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id85/id85.pdf

Having a better Lawn starts now!

Wow what a grass growing season we have just been through.  I am, at this point, so tired of being on my mower that first frost can't come fast enough.  Though this has been a good growing season for turf, weeds have seen their glory day as well.  During this post I will outline some of the steps you should take this fall to ensure a quality lawn come next spring.

• Keep mowing until the turf quits growing.  This not only keeps crabgrass from going to seed and adding to that problem but also continues to promote tillering (branching at the crown) in the turf clumps.
• If you need to reseed now is the time to do so.  Just remember that to be successful there needs to be good soil to seed contact.  This means roughing up the soil, adding the seed and then rolling or raking the seed into the soil.  You may also use one of the one pass pieces of equipment that is designed to do all steps in one pass. For more in depth information on reseeding see:  Improving Turf through Renovation
• After the first frost you can begin looking at weed control.  If you have seeded the lawn in September then you will need to put some time between the seeding and the weed control.  The label of your product will guide you on the waiting period.  Oct. and November are good times to control many broadleaved weeds.  Weeds like dandelion, henbit, chickweed, and many other broadleaved weeds germinate in the fall and develop through the winter.  Therefore, fall is the best time to nip the problem in the bud before they become a problem in the spring.  For more information on what to use for control methods see:  Weed Control for Kentucky Home Lawns
• Finally fertilization will be crucial for great turf next spring.  Fall again is the best time of year to deliver fertility to your turf.  The best way to decide on what to apply is to begin with a soil test.  This will ensure there is no waste of fertilize and that the plants get what they need.  Take a look at: How to take a good soil test.    

Nandina berries are toxic to birds, by Tom Barnes

How many books, articles, and other materials have you read that says to plant Nandina, Heavenly Bamboo, or Sacred Bamboo (Nandina domestica) to attract and feed birds in the late winter?  This plant is classified as a noxious weed by the U.S. Department of Agriculture and many states list it as a noxious-invasive weed because it escapes readily from the home landscape.  It is used as an ornamental because of the dark glossy green leaves and bright red berries that persist throughout the winter. It is still used, in large numbers by the horticultural industry and landscapers and is a recommended landscape plant by University Extension programs across the country.   Unfortunately this species, which has escaped from cultivation, is highly toxic to birds. The bright red berries contain cyanide and other alkaloids that produce highly toxic hydrogen cyanide (HCN) which is extremely poisonous to all animals. Sudden death may be the only sign of cyanide poisoning and death usually comes in minutes to an hour.  The deaths of cedar waxwings in Georgia that were necropsied at the Vet. school showed hemorrhaging in the heart, lungs, trachea, abdominal cavity and other organs.  This is a horribly painful method of death for a bird or any other animal.  Bird deaths in the Houston, TX area and other parts of the country have also documented the death of songbirds as a result of eating these berries. 

Annual flower variety trial update.

As you may be aware the Nelson County Extension office is participating in a state wide variety trial this year and things are going well.  The 4-H teen Council and I planted the twenty varieties in early May on the Extension office property.  The planting was to undergo no miraculous efforts to maintain, just simple everyday maintenance.  This include up front fertilization, weed management, and mulching. 

The Kentucky Home Extension Master Gardeners have evaluated the plantings once a month since the install and will continue to do so until frost.  Later we will publish the findings as to which plants performed best overall.   If you are close stop by and see the planting, it continues to receive compliments from the public for adding a very nice splash of color to the neighborhood.

Bagworms: pest problem of the week!

Bagworms are voracious feeders once they reach a critical size.  Evidently we are at that critical size now which is about a month and a half behind when they usually become a problem.  Bagworms are the tree ornaments of nature.  The caterpillar forms and lives in its own pouch domicile.  The bag is spun to create an extremely tough structure and they continue to add to the size as they increase their size.  They live in, mate in and feed from the comfort of their living room.  When they attach to a branch they resemble a little ornament hanging from the tree. However, gain no satisfaction from their decoration because these buggers can defoliate a spruce, arborvitae, pine, cedar, etc. short order.

Observing your plants will be the best defense to thwart off an invasion. Stay diligent beginning in May and check periodically.  They begin as a hatchling from the overwintered bag (with as many as 300 siblings) and are very small.  Their small size and an incomplete bag make them susceptible to what ever you decide to use as your offense.  For more detailed information and control measures see the University of Kentucky publication: Bagworms on Landscape Plants

Gifted Gardener Newsletter

Enjoy the newest Gifted gardener newsletter.  If you would like to subscribe let us know.

Lumpy Lawns caused by Mole Mania!

Lots of folks are dealing with lumpy lawn syndrome these days.  With the above average moisture for this time of year in Central Kentucky Moles have enjoyed an extended run (pardon the pun). Therefore extending the fury of many homeowners in the process. 

When you have moles it tells me really two things: 1) you have a particularly nice piece of soil and 2) you have an ample selection of earthworms.  Now neither of the two are problem in their own but when that becomes the domicile and smorgasbord for the local mole population a problem is born.  The question usually becomes "How do I get rid of the Moles?".  The process is not an overly simple one and I need to dispel some myths about moles as we go along.  For example white grubs have really gotten a bad rap as being the cause of a growing mole problem.  While moles will eat a grub, they are not the food of choice.   It turns out that they are much happier with a good selection of earthworms.  In other words don't waste your money on controlling grubs to control moles it just won't be effective.  Products that are made from Castor bean extract are intended to run moles off and will do so for only a short period of time.  Once the mole gets used to it he/she comes back.   In fact the only thing that consistently rids you of moles long term is an earthworm shaped bait that contains the active ingredient Bromethalin. 

The nitty gritty includes rolling down all the runs (feeding tunnels) in the lawn, then wait for one to pop back up.  This usually indicates a main feeding run and the bait should be deposited into the run.  Once the bait is taken the mole will survive another 24 hours.  There are usually only one mole per acre because of their territorial nature however once you have removed one mole there remains a good chance that a neighboring mole will take over the runs.  You must remain diligent if you are to rid the lawn of moles.  I have such bad soil that I would love to have a mole working my yard at least then aeration would be taking place. 

Advantages of Fall Vegetable Gardening

I just recently presented a class on fall vegetable gardening at the Bloomfield, KY Library to a an enthusiastic audience.  During that talk I outlined several advantages to the fall garden versus the spring garden or as an extension to the spring garden.  First I will point out the reasons it isn't as popular as the spring garden and then I will list the many advantages to the fall garden. 

Everyone loves a spring garden for many reasons not the least of which is that we have been cooped up in the house all winter looking through seed catalogs and just getting the itch to be outside.  We have a uncontrollable instinct to refill the pantries and strong desire for the flavors that come with a garden.  For me its the smell of freshly tilled soil that just makes me happy.  We begin the garden with vim and vigor and end sometimes in a flurry of I just cant keep up.  This year is one of those years that epitomizes why fall gardening is just not as popular.  In a year like this the garden can easily be run over with weeds, taken by some evil fungi, or wiped out by a marauding herd of potato beetles.  Those scenarios in themselves are reason enough to give up. But lets not quit hastily, here are some of the advantages of the fall vegetable garden:

•  Provides valuable produce production extension
• Excellent quality produce due to cool temperatures
• Sweeter
• Increased tenderness
• Less off flavors
• Vegetables hold longer in a fall garden
• Fewer pests to control
• Helps keep weed seed numbers down for next seasons garden
• Adds additional organic matter to the garden
• Less disease pressure

For more information of vegetable gardening in general stop by the office at 317 south third street, Bardstown KY 40004 or take a look at Vegetable Gardening in KY

What is that yellow grassy looking plant in my lawn and landscape?

Are you as aggravated with the yellow grass like plant that grows faster than your turf, invades your landscape and just makes the yard look anemic?  The plant that we are talking is Yellow Nutsedge.  Yellow nutsedge is in the sedge family and has been long consider a wet area and wet season plant.  That however has changed and it seems to dominate in about any location.  If you believe the patches are getting bigger each year you are exactly correct.  The plant spreads via rhizomes (underground stems) and the dispersion of the tubers through cultivation.  The plant is square stemmed and the growth point is low to the ground which allows it to tolerate mowing.  General cultivation doesn't work for the removal because the plant forms tubers underground that can remain dormant for long periods of time and can get moved around through tillage practices.  So how do we cope with this annoying weed. 

I usually tell folks to move but there are a few things you can try.  Well when we are talking small clumps hand pulling can work.  If the the clump is a stand alone (with nothing else around it) then spot spraying with a glysophate solution can work.  Otherwise a nutsedge control will need to be used to control the population in a turf situation.  The active ingredients you will look for is betazon, halosulfuron, sulfentrazone to see the retail packaging you can find these active ingredients in visit Controlling Weeds in Kentucky Home Lawns and look on page 3 and 5.  Always follow label directions in whatever you decide to use.   

Wet spring means big problems and big blessings

A wet spring means that the water hose is lonely and our boots are muddy.  It also means that we should spend more time in the landscape and garden scouting for a plethora of potential diseases and insects that will be abundant in this season.  The following are some of the things are more prevalent as I walk around yards this spring.

• Roses are being eaten heavily by an insect called the rose slug and the rose rosette virus has become more common on all types of roses.  
• Maples are suffering from what appears to be verticillium wilt
• Bacterial cankers are showing up on all types of plants, from weeping cherries to smoke tree.
• Spider mites are on spruce, juniper, holly, annual flowers etc.  
• aphids are still running wild on many plants but none worse than daylilies
• Tomatoes are being threatened by both early blight and late blight, preventative controls should be implemented for both of these problems.   

Are your Tomatoes Fired Up?

A very common problem I have encountered in gardens this spring is known as Early Blight.  We have had a especially good year for the development of this fungal disease.  Cooler temperatures, heavy and often rains have caused this to progress somewhat faster than in other years.  What to do?

Control begins with clean transplants, which means no spotting on the leaves, and good green color to the plant.  Since this is a soil born disease there should be a mulch placed on the soil to keep soil from bouncing on to the leaves during heavy rains.  Any thing will do such as newspaper, leaves, grass clippings, etc. An early spray program of chlorothalonil or mancozeb (these are active ingredients) will insure that you keep the plant clean longer through the season.  If you are not partial to chemical treatments then particular attention will need to be paid to the cultural practices that will reduce the risk.  Water under the foliage with drip irrigation or soaker hoses, but never over the top with a sprinkler.  Also if you reuse trellises, cages, stakes etc. you will need to sanitize these during the winter.  The tiny spores can overwinter on these structures and cause re-infestation the following year. 

In central Kentucky you still have time to replant tomatoes to get a crop but the above practices need to be used.